Cheap Eats - Crazy for Cuban in the ‘burbs

From Havana to U in north Fulton

High-quality Cuban food is hard to come by in Atlanta. It’s surprising, considering the wide array of ethnic cuisines represented on the dining scene. There’s a Thai restaurant on every street corner, but when it comes to Cuban, we take what we can get, even if it means wolfing down a Cuban sandwich one-handed while driving back to the office from Kool Korners. So a new Cuban eatery is a welcome thing. Granted, From Havana to U is pretty far-flung, clinging to the outer rim of Alpharetta in a new strip mall on a relatively quiet stretch of Highway 9. If you live anywhere but Alpharetta, getting there is a trek. Thankfully, it’s a trek that pays off.

Havana Good Time: The dining room is tidy and new, but there’s not much to distinguish the place aside from a palm tree mural painted on one wall. Salsa music livens up the scene quite a bit and seems to put everyone in a good mood. (The sangria helps with that, too.) A family — parents and teenage children — has a good time at a table in the corner, joking and laughing. Across the room, a young couple switches off on feeding their querulous toddler while enjoying their own meals. Seemingly unperturbed by the music and ambient noise, a solo diner is content to read his novel while he eats.

All Smiles: Co-owner Rafael Perez and his lively, outspoken waitstaff also help to lighten things up. Everyone who works here is quick with a smile, a recommendation or just a friendly word. Freebies don’t hurt, either; our server brought two desserts but only charged us for one. If they’re looking to create loyal regulars, they’re taking all the right steps.

Latin Love: Of course, the food is the real draw. The deep fryer works overtime, turning out mostly delicious Cuban specialties. Fabulously flaky empanadas filled with ground beef arrive piping-hot at the table. Order several — they disappear quickly. The only real disappointment is the fried shrimp appetizer. A nubby coating encases bouncy, overcooked shrimp. A swipe through accompanying marinara sauce doesn’t help much. Save room instead for such homey entrees as beef short ribs in smoky-sweet barbecue sauce or ropa vieja, a traditional Cuban stew with shredded beef, tomatoes and peppers.

Find Your Mojo: A sampler platter offers a generous helping of several Cuban staples: Roast pork is tender and juicy, its citrusy mojo punch softened by caramelized onions. Picadillo, the same ground beef mixture that fills the empanadas, is delicious on its own. The beef has been cooked with tomatoes and garlic until it’s thick and aromatic; green olives offer contrast. Maduros (sweet plantains) and boiled yucca in a tangy vinaigrette round out the sampler platter, offering sweet and sour counterpoints. Black beans and rice are perfectly fine, but there’s something about moros (short for Moros y Crisitanos — Moors and Christians) that’s totally irresistible. The beans and rice are cooked together, making for a dish that’s exotic and comforting at the same time. Exotic and comforting — that pretty much sums up the appeal of Cuban food. The flavors might not be immediately recognizable, but they’re soul-satisfying. And they’re right on the money at From Havana to U.