Cheap Eats - Georgia Diner dishes up comfort

A welcome exception to generic diner fare

While I love my Southern meat-and-three as much as the next Atlantan, anyone with a nana in New Jersey can tell you there are times when nothing’s better than a good old greasy diner. While the metro area has its share of these Northern eateries, they aren’t all successful. Some are overpriced, corporately owned and undermanaged, and homemade specials are often replaced by generic frozen fare. But the Georgia Diner is a welcome exception. Though not Greek-owned or designed in true modular style, it is, nevertheless, family-run and fun — open 24 hours with a large menu and hefty portions served with a smile and just the right amount of attitude.

Diner down-low: As Northern transplants and diner aficionados know, there are a few secrets to ordering the right thing off the requisite endless diner menu. While the sheer glut of selections does offer something for everyone, some of the less-popular dishes or endless renditions of the chicken breast might be best ignored. Stick with the breakfast fare and daily rotating lunch or dinner specials.

The Georgia Diner offers a special breakfast deal weekday mornings from 6 to 11 a.m. For $4.49, hungry guests can get three eggs cooked any style, one pancake or French toast as well as breakfast meat and home fries or grits. For lunch, try the oft-featured half-pound beef burger, cooked to order and served with a mountain of fries for $3.99. Equally hearty dishes include chicken or eggplant parmigiana and meatloaf sandwiches for $4.99. Dinner specials, around $11.95, include international and comfort cuisine such as Angus steaks, curried chicken and stuffed cabbage. All entrees are served with a choice of potato and vegetable, and fresh, hot challah bread. Fresh fish is often offered and is perfectly broiled, not overcooked.

Super soup: Another diner staple, soup, is served up well here (and costs just $1.49 at lunch). The homemade matzo ball, chicken noodle and daily soups are usually good bets. The French onion, though served classically in a crock with melted cheese, was a bit too salty both times I tried it.

Desserts and fountain ice cream treats are also abundantly available. While the mile-high, multilayered cakes beckon from the pastry counter, it seems best to ask the server which selections are the freshest. A single slice of cake or pie will be enough to promise a sugar coma for two.

A modest beer and wine list is offered as are the standard Greek gyros and souvlaki plates and lighter spanakopita (spinach pie) classics.

International delight: Although the Georgia Diner is located in a Southern suburb and is owned by an eastern Indian family (which sells saris and jewelry at an entrance counter), classic diner fare holds up here. Your server will likely be from Romania or Russia or even a native from Norcross. Somehow it all works to create that essence that is the diner — a small neighborhood restaurant that attracts a cross-section of America, from blue-collar locals to traveling business folk. I even heard compliments from a neighboring table full of patrons who were visitors from New Jersey. Nana would approve.