Cheap Eats - Dynamic organic

Old Fourth Ward’s Dynamic Dish

On an edgy strip of Edgewood Avenue, a closed-down thrift store named “Acts of Faith” may lead one to think all hope has left the building. But faith simply moved next door to Dynamic Dish, an eclectic vegetarian delicatessen and market. The newly opened eatery/gallery offers fresh energy in an uncontrived atmosphere to one of Atlanta’s rapidly revamping ‘hoods.

In the small, sleek store warmed by wood communal tables, some cyclers have stopped by to coo over the vegetarian selections. They sample the giant red radishes with sea salt and order tofu club sandwiches with tempeh bacon. German hip-hop plays on the stereo and chef/owner David Sweeney scrambles to pack orders into biodegradable containers.

Homegrown green: Sweeney, a well-traveled Army brat who also sells his wares at Piedmont Park’s Green Market, commits to using locally grown organic with international cooking methodologies. His theory is that the body actually reacts better to the climate when local foods are consumed. Sweeney chose the building because even it is “green,” due to a recent revamping by Dagmar Epsten, a German-born architect who added natural lighting, wheat-board surfaces and reclaimed maple hardwood floors salvaged from a textile mill to keep the structure environmentally friendly.

Sinful Zen: Though the food at Dynamic Dish may be good for you, it’s vegetarian sure to satisfy even crude carnivores like me. Menu favorites include the aforementioned tofu club ($6.95). A warm, roasted rosemary tofu sandwich ($7.95) takes the soy product to a whole new level: The balsamic vinegar and fresh rosemary marinade impart an earthy, satisfying flavor brightened by a walnut pesto spread. The herbed goat feta with grilled red pepper and pumpkin seeds is a textural delight. Match it with classic warm German potato salad or a side of apple spelt berry and dried cherry mix.

Sweeney also offers two or more daily specials. Recently it was a hearty Moroccan tagine ($8.95) with locally produced pumpkin, sweet potatoes, chick peas, peppers and couscous. The subtle hints of cumin and cinnamon in the delicate tomato broth make for a perfect ode to fall. Other specials might include red-beet quinoa salad and feta-stuffed Hungarian peppers.

Fun with condiments: Don’t stop after ordering at the counter. Peruse the small store’s international relishes and other food embellishments. Hungarian mustard in an easy-use tube, Mrs. Campbell’s chow chow, white balsamic vinegar and maté tea line the shelves in an almost artful way. Likewise, there are hand-crafted German wooden shot-glass holder sets, handmade fondue pots, vintage crystal and the like. Many are remnants from Sweeney’s past collections while catering.

Juice up: Don’t leave without a liquid pick-me-up — the kind you don’t have to feel guilty about. Try a fresh-squeezed glass of apple carrot juice ($2.95). Ask for added fresh ginger or lemon for a bright boost. For those who just can’t be that pure, grab a small bottle of BibiCaffe, a sparkling espresso. Refuel and be dynamic.